Coach

Coach
Showing posts with label Sapim. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sapim. Show all posts

Saturday, April 12, 2014

Almost nearly a bike!

Ritchey WCS tape, plus underwrap of Cinelli cork on tops
In amongst all the other side projects, 24 hours of work in the last 28, and getting ready for the Miesville Grinder, I've been slowly finishing up the 'fiddly bits' on the Foundry "Auger+".  Doing the main bolt-ons is easy.  Building the wheels - straightforward.  Figuring out cable runs, adjusters, chain length, brifter placement, stack height, cutting the fork... ...those are the hard ones.

  • Dry fit bars, stem, brifters
  • Set stack height to same as existing favorite bike
  • Balance on bike to try it out.
  • Add 2 5mm spacers on top of stem, just to make sure
  • Disassemble
  • Cut steerer (ever cut the steerer on a $600 fork?  It's a little daunting.)
  • Figure out cable runs, end fittings
  • Realize that XT derailleurs don't have an adjuster
  • Get in-line adjusters from LBS (thanks NOW)
  • Decide where to put said adjusters
  • trim cable housing
  • install all the bits
  • tweak until it's right
  • tweak a little more
  • tape and tie in place
  • install cable
  • stretch, adjust
  • set brakes (TRP Hy/Rd - easiest setup EVER!)
  • adjust derailleurs
  • Double check torque on stem, seatpost, crank, pedals, brakes
  • Go for short ride!!!

And so I did.  Only about a mile, but a little climbing, descending, corners, braking.  Initial impressions are that "it's just a bike" - which is high praise.  I won't have to learn any weird twitches or tweaks.  I will have to learn the brakes. They stop better than cantis - or calipers for that matter.  I do have to take a couple of links out of the chain - not used to the amount of takeup and stretch an 11-36 has and I mis-judged.  And I have to wrap the bars and clip/end cap cables.
But it's quiet and quick and not too bad for weight.  I can't wait to ride on gravel!
BTW, Challenge is providing me a set of Paris-Roubaix tires, and a pair of their new Gravel Grinders.  Watch for a future writeup on both!  I love my Almanzos, but I hate burning them up on road, so I'll be flippping back and forth!

Pardon me while I gush.  Whiskey 9 thru axle fork, TRP Hy/Rd brakes, Hope EVO Pro 2 hub, Sapim CX Ray spokes, HED Belgium rims, Challenge Almanzo tires

Shimano XT 9 spd derailleur, XT 11-36 cassette, Shimano 9000 cables

Ritchey WCS Stem, Cowbell 2 44cm bars, Ultegra 6700 brifters

FSA Gossamer 36-46 crankset, Shimano XTR pedals, Ritchey WCS post, Selle Italia saddle


Saturday, March 1, 2014

Time for the hard men

When most riders start talking about their 'wanna do' rides, typically something like les Alpe d'Huez, Galabier, or one of the other great alpine climbs comes to mind. Riding your dream bike, weighing a touch over 7kilos, on silken tubulars, carefully selected to minimize rolling weight and maximize climbing/descending efficiency. Traveling  the beautiful roads of southern France, climbing for hours in the sunshine and crystal clear blue skies to gain the insight and wisdom that come from attaining one of the legendary summits of Le Tour.  The warm summer breezes, good French wine and cheeses that await you at your pension upon your return to the valleys.

On the other hand, there are those (like me) who yearn for the cold, grey mornings of March as the wind comes off the North Sea in Belgium and Flanders. Straddling a slightly workmanlike steed shod with distinctly plump tires, low profile rims, and lots of tire clearance. Wearing a rain cape in the damp morning, with the distinct smell of embrocation providing a wakeup call.  No spidery lads from Columbia and the Basque country.  These are the days for the hard men.  Names like Boonen, Cancellara, Flecha, O’Grady, and Voight.  Men who revel in the knowledge that only the strong will survive the day and only the bravest will win...  Today was a day of that sort. Omloop Het Nieuwsblad is the opening race of a series of one-day 'classic' rides in the north country.  Ian Stannard beat Greg Van Avermaet in a sprint.  In the end, only 33 riders could be considered 'in contention' at 10km, and only the two at the finish.  Hard men.  The dominant features of most of these are long, windy flats, secteurs of cobbles, and short, narrow, steep and often greasy climbs.  The legendary Kapelmuur - Muur van Geraardsbergen has pitches approaching 20%, cobbles, moss and mud - on the dry days!  Hard men win bike races here.  Cancellara launched an insane attack on Boonen here in the 2010 Ronde van Vlanderen (Tour of Flanders) that had people talking about a motor in the seatpost (honest!).  

I love the Classics and the hard men who race them at the front.  It’s a particular kind of misery that isn’t for everyone, but God help me, I love it.  Watching a rider court that thin line between speed and disaster as they attempt to thread between the fans on one side, bowler hat cobbles on the other while tapdancing down a little stripe of gravel, grass or hammering a big gear in order to skip across the tops of the cobbles, all while battling dust, grit, rain, mud…It’s poetry of the soul. But it's the long sections of flat and windy roads that send the sunshine riders out the back.  One hundred and eighty or so kilometers of wind, rain soaking through your cape, wet gloves, dripping glasses, and leg numbing cold are sure to make the sunny boys look to the warmth of the team car, and another 'training ride' come to an end. 

There's a special reverence in the pits and garages for the mechanics who carefully select the wheels, tires and frames, all customized to meet the individual needs of their riders.  The perfect saddle, just the right combination of bar tape. That extra O-ring or zip tie to hold the computer in place, or a bit of friction tape on bottle cages to ensure they stay put.  Top tube charts noting the cobbles, feed zones, sprint spots.  The legion of 'team staff' recruited for the day to carry spare wheels to remote locations on the course.  Team cars or neutral support may be many minutes behind the leaders in the special sections. Having a wheel at the end of a cobble section may be the difference between winning and not even being in the group.  And by the end of April, all of this gear will be carefully disassembled, inspected, lubricated and stored for next season.

Tires and bikes play a huge part in the Classics.  Building a bike for the roads of Belgium and the North is very different from a ‘climber’s bike built for the mountains. In the first place, it needs some shock absorbing characteristics.  Longer forks, chainstays and more relaxed angles help, as do double wrapping the bars, and maybe a slightly more padded seat.  Probably even more important are wheels and tires. 
If you look across the pro tour team pits, you’ll see a wide array of sponsored equipment, some of which may even carry the actual manufacturer’s logos.  And some that carries the branding of the team’s sponsors, but doesn’t look quite ‘right’.  Wheels are often a bit suspect.  It’s amazing how many different logos you see on the old standby Mavic SSC tubular rims.  It’s basically unchanged in 30 years, but still a benchmark for ride quality and reliability.  And glued to those?  Well, *anybody* can make tires, but as often as not what you actually see are Dugast or FMB tubulars in ‘drag’ – with someone else’s label carefully applied.  There are a few real brands (like Challenge), but mostly, it's a rebranding game.  In the end, it's really about feel - supple casings resist punctures, soak up shock better, and provide better road feel.  Better contact means better power transmission.  It's hard to be powerful if your tires are off the ground part of the time. 

OK, what the hell does L'enfer du Nord and the other spring classics have to do with riding gravel roads in Minnesota?  Quite a lot, actually.  We don’t really have cobbles here – or at least not enough, but we’ve got an abundance of crappy pavement, gravel roads and crushed limestone trails, a few B roads to explore, and maybe even a ski trail or two.  I’m at a point that criterium setups don’t do much for me.  They’re fun for a quick blast around the lake, after which you make reassuring comments to the kid that let you ride his/her pride and joy, and then give it back.  After riding such an awesome bike, my general thought is “glad I don’t ride *that* all the time!”.    And honestly, the older I get, the more I want something that’s got a bit more ‘give’ vertically than you get from a traditional road race bike.  (I have a very nice Ridley Noah for sale if you are interested).  There are so many good bikes out there now. Custom designs from people like Steve Hampsten, Linskey, Moots, Peacock Groove and a whole host of others (NB - Steve is an old friend from Seattle days).  And lots of production bikes from Foundry, Trek, BMC and many others all targeting the current 'gravel' market.  If I were to guess, I'd bet gravel is the 2nd fastest growing segment of the cycling industry behind fat bikes.  And this is good for bike shops -- and consumers.  Getting people out the door and onto bikes is a good thing.  Having people believe that they are onto something new is a great thing.

Our spring gravel races have a lot in common with the Classics.  Weather is often marginal, the roads are sure to be pitted, gritty and often littered with 'poodles'.  It's that great chance to have an adventure, and finish the day with a beer (now if we could only get good frites!  

And it's a chance to reflect on the hard men.

Monday, January 27, 2014

Wheel building for geeks, nerds and compleat idiots

I've been dinking around with wheelbuiding and wheel repair since Kevin King and Sally Hildt tried to teach me a little bit about building back during my bike racing days in Seattle.  I still regard them as masters of the craft, and I'm just a piker.  But I do know how to lace up wheels, properly tension them, and they rarely blow up.  
In the last few months though, I've started working on upping my technology, adding to my existing Park Pro truing stand.  I've found several resources like wheelfanatyks, plus pretty good reference sites like Sapim's website, spoke calculators from Sapim, Wheelpro, and Pro Wheelbuilder. I also like Eric's blog, from whom I have unabashedly stolen some great ideas.

Roger Musson's Wheelpro site does a great job of discussing how to build, so I won't repeat that and Eric has a pretty detailed analysis of how to take measurements, what to measure, and a bit on why it's important.  I didn't want to analyze this too heavily, just get to the point that I could build a wheel that is 'dead on'.  

Modern rims, like the HED Belgium C2, make this pretty easy compared to the old (and flexible) 19mm x 15mm road rims of the 80s.  Let's face it - 36 spokes was de rigueur for any sort of wheel that you wanted to rely upon.  Now, the options are plentiful - if a tad more expensive and heavier.  

I'm still getting my wheel stand workspace dialed in, and there are a couple of 'gotta gets' left to make it like I want, starting with a solid steel plate base.  Two reasons for this. First, a half inch plate of steel isn't going to move unless I want it to. Second, it's magnetic, which provides a place to affix the dial indicator in a little more stable manner than my current 'on the stand leg' position.
Next is better lighting.  My building workspace is in a 'crawl space' in the basement. 5'11" clearance, not great light, but it's warm, dry and spider free. A task light and some side light would be nice.
So anyway, there are a couple of new tools that I've added to the kit.  A Hozan spoke tension meter, which I've always coveted, and sniped on ebay for a pretty good price (but had to wait 30 days for USPS and Italie Poste to deliver); and a Spokey spoke wrench.  Inexpensive, easy on the fingers, and spot on placement.  I also picked up the dial indicator and base from a local 2nd hand tool store.  It's accurate to .001", which is plenty for me.  I've always built good wheels, but the geek in me has always looked for repeatability and metrics.
After all that, here's what I wound up with for the wheel I just rebuilt. I reused the spokes (Sapim CX-Ray) because they were in pretty good shape, and the things are bloody expensive to go get new ones.  I used to buy DT straight gauge by the box for what a handful of these would cost!  I was shooting for a drive side tension of around 160, so this should be pretty good.  I guess I'll find out on the road.